NOTE: Tech support is highly recommended so make sure to only do this installation 9-4 Mountain Time, Monday – Friday. BullyDog tech support closes at 5pm MST. You want to leave an hour of time just in case. Their tech support line is 940-783-9914.

Hook up a battery charger to your truck. Pull the fuse that your intercooler pump is fuse tapped into. Remove the fuse tap but PLUG THE FUSE BACK IN. Failure to plug the fuse back into the fuse box will result in the download freezing up and could brick your ECU.

Lay out your instruction pamphlet and all of the cables, programmer, etc. on a table.

Turn on your lap top and log onto

Call BullyDog and do everything they tell you to do. Keep them on the phone with you for every step until your truck starts.

Remember to PLUG IN THE INTERCOOLER FUSE TAP. Failure to do so will result in a blown motor.

Start the truck and enjoy an extra 90hp and 50tq to the rear wheels. This will make your truck faster in the 1/8 mile by .2 seconds.

  • Go to Lowes or Autozone and purchase every version of 12mm wrench that you can find. It’s always best to have it on hand, and whatever you don’t use you can always return.
  • Remove the catback and tailpipe. Unplug all 4 o2 sensors. Disconnect the front of the driveshaft from the front diff (if 4×4) and swing it out of the way, you can keep the rear of the driveshaft connected. Remove the mid pipes (you’ll need a 14mm socket, a few extensions, and a ton of torque (I use a pneumatic impact) Toyota torqued these on super tight for some reason.
  • Remove the heat shields from the stock manifolds, remove the stock manifolds. At this point you should be about an hour into your install including jacking up the truck.
  • Slip the driver side Long Tube header in place. Thread on the second from the front lower nut onto its stud first. If you don’t thread this nut on first, you will have to remove whatever nuts you do install to put this nut on it’s stud.
  • Thread the rest of the nuts onto their studs. Tighten all finger tight at first, then working your way from middle to outside hand tighten all 8 nuts. At first tighten each nut 1/4 turn, then half turn, Then tight, then tighter, and finally as tight as you can with the box end of the 12mm wrench that you’re using.
  • Try to slip the passenger side header into place, note where the air injection flange contacts the cab. Take passenger side header back out of truck, use a 6lb persuader to massage the cab of truck until header slips into place.
  • You can thread all 8 nuts into place on passenger side header in any order, but make sure to use tightening sequences described for driver side header.
  • Apply a very thin layer of Copper RTV (from AutoZone) on all of the flange mating surfaces. Loosely bolt up mid pipes/V band clamps, Also loosely bolt up catback. The only reason you’re bolting up catback right now is to generally point the mid pipes in the right direction.
  • Slowly start to tighten the v band clamps. Twist and wobble the mid pipes as you tighten V band clamps. Pay attention to where the rear of the mid pipes is falling, you need to make sure that the rear flange is generally lining up with the front flanges of the catback. Don’t overtighten the v band clamps or you will strip the threads and the clamps will need to be replaced. Tighten just enough to keep the mid pipe from wobbling/twisting.
  • Before tightening up the catback to mid pipes flanges, install the tailpipes. Finger tighten their bolts. Adjust and level the tailpipes from side to side. If necessary, now is the time to slightly twist the catback to get the tailpipes to be level with one another. When tailpipes are to your satisfaction tighten all bolts, I usually torque to spec using a pneumatic impact.
  • Apply anti-seize onto all 02 sensors. Install front position 02 sensors into primary tube bung. Use supplied plugs to plug header collector bungs. If you’re installing an AFR gauge the collector bung is the best place for it’s 02 sensor. Install rear 02 sensors, you may need to switch rear 02 sensors from side to side depending on which options you chose for the mid pipes, call for details 760-877-4234.
  • Confirm all bolts are tight, re-install front of front driveshaft onto front diff, use red loc tite on the bolts.
  • Start truck, confirm there are no exhaust leaks by holding your hands near all connections and feeling for air leaking out. Test drive listening for leaks, if you hear any put your hands near where they may be and feel for air leaking past the connection.
  • Our valvetrain is very noisy. Thin pipe long tube headers exaggerate the sound from the valvetrain and can sound similar to an exhaust leak. Always confirm suspicion of an exhaust leak by putting your hands near the suspected leak and feeling for air leaking past the connection.
  • Confirm that 49HP and 89TQ was gained to the rear wheels by completely disabling traction control and mashing the throttle to the floor. You will notice that there is no issue burning the tires thru first and second gear 😉

We went LIVE for the first time today on our exclusive BAM Chat session to answer YOUR questions! Be sure to like/follow our Facebook page and stay tuned for the next live video!

Installing a 10+ BAMufflers Budget System and Helmholtz Resonator. These instructions can be applied to the 10+ Standard 6″ and 8″ System as well. Check out the bonus footage at the end and be sure to subscribe for more videos!

BA Mufflers Youtube Channel

HighHeatBlacking out the stock tailpipe is really easy: Purchase a pack green scotchbrite pads, the best place to get them is in the cleaning isle at Home Depot. Grab a pad and soak it in paint thinner. Scrub the tailpipe like crazy. You will use at least 1 pad, maybe 2. At the first sign of the pad wearing out replace it with a new one for the most effectiveness. When you’re satisfied that every square inch of the tailpipe has been scrubbed clean off the paint thinner with a rag soaked in acetone. Use a piece of wire thru the stock hanger, and hang the tailpipe on your garage door or a tree, etc. Shoot 2 coats of high temp black paint.

I’m writing this article today to help Ford Raptor Enthusiasts understand their trucks a little better, and to understand how their exhaust systems work. I’ve been a Ford Motor Company enthusiast for over 20 years. The Ford Raptor is certainly one of Ford’s greatest creations!! The downside to all of it’s Luxury, Power, and Off Road Capability is that it comes with a price.


Given it’s price, buyer demographics of the Ford Raptor tend to be guys old enough to remember the original 5.0 Mustang. Matter of fact it’s very possible that a Ford Raptor owner was once upon a time a 5.0 Mustang owner. After all, Ford made millions of 5.0 Mustangs! Both my wife and I owned 5.0 Mustangs!! She had a White 93 notch, and I had a Dark Blue 89 Notch.


I bring up the 5.0 Mustang and Demographics, etc. Because it’s very important to take everything that you know about 5.0 Mustang exhaust and completely forget about it!! Back in those days just about anything would make the exhaust flow better and more power was the by-product.


Our modern day Ford Raptor engines need an exhaust that works with its variable valve timing. Precise dimensions must be maintained or proper scavenging will not occur and the engine will waste HP pushing out the exhaust instead of turning the tires.


Ford engineers spent countless hours to figure out the exact dimensions needed to maximize the Variable Valve Timing system that is installed on every Ford Raptor.


When I first began my quest to build the perfect exhaust system I visited every shop in North County (San Diego). Everywhere I went I heard guys telling me, “you need back pressure or you will lose low end torque”. After countless hours of research, and consulting with my neighbor (retired Thermal Dynamics Engineer with Lockhead Martin, his biggest project was Apollo), I have learned that you don’t want any backpressure at all!! Backpressure kills power.


We want scavenging, not backpressure!! The problem with our 3 dimension world is that there is no such thing as exhaust tubing which gets bigger in diameter as the engines rpm increases and smaller in diameter as the engines rpm decreases. At the time of this writing this is impossible;) we have to settle.


If we size the tubing too small it will build good low end torque, but top end will suffer. If we size the tubing too big it will kill low end, but there will be NOTHING gained at the top end! This is because even though a restriction is removed (the muffler), not all of the restrictions are removed, specifically the stock exhaust manifolds. A good analogy would be, “why dig a bigger ditch if the chute in the dam is stuck only partially open”.


Bigger exhaust tubing gives the potential to flow more exhaust. But if we’re not removing the second biggest restriction in the system, the exhaust manifolds, then why are we making the tubing bigger in diameter and losing all that low end torque???


We have to look at where Ford engineers had their hands tied. The muffler and the exhaust manifolds. You can bet your bottom dollar each and every Ford engineer is a motorsports enthusiast!! Why would they spend all that time and $$ learning to become an engineer if they didn’t absolutely love motorsports. If they had their way EVERY Raptor would have long tube headers and a free flow muffler. If that was the case I wouldn’t be here writing this article 😉


Ford engineers’ ‘big brother’ is Ford accountants, and the EPA. The stock Raptor muffler certainly is not a Ford engineers greatest creation when it comes to power. It’s a huge compromise. It has to meet a certain sound level, and it has to meet a certain price point. The stock muffler is THE MOST RESTRICTIVE part of the stock exhaust system. It is DESIGNED to be restrictive, on purpose.


There are 3 ways to quiet down an exhaust system. Here they are in order of effectiveness: Restriction. Hands down the easiest, most cost effective way to quiet down a truck. Reflection. A reflection style muffler actually becomes a restriction as the rpm increases, so it’s basically 2 mufflers in 1. And absorption.


Restriction is what it sounds like, stick a huge restriction into the flow of exhaust and the sound stays inside the system. Reflection does basically the same thing, but it attempts to give the exhaust a path around the ‘wall’ that is placed in the way of the hot, fast moving exhaust gases. Absorption gives the sound an area to bounce around in so that the sound stays inside the muffler.


A properly built absorption muffler is hands down the best type of muffler for making power. Now I’m not talking about a Cherry Bomb Glass pack. I’m talking about sizing a chamber correctly so that the sound waves have a big enough space to bounce around in and absorb into the packing. Much like a box for a bass speaker. You can make a small box act like a big box by simply adding packing into the box. An absorption style muffler will do exactly the same thing.


But, if properly built, an absorption style muffler will work like a RESTRICTION style muffler at low rpm, and like straight pipe at higher rpm. Here’s how: At lower rpm each cylinder fires a high pressure pulse into the exhaust system. This high pressure pulse has to speed up to exit the exhaust system. But, when the high pressure pulse enters the muffler can, since the can is so much bigger in diameter than the exhaust tubing, the pulse expands into the can and slows down. The following high pressure pulse hits the first slower pulse and it slows down.Then a chain reaction happens and each new pulse collides into the previous pulse. This reaction causes the exhaust tubing to fill up at a lower rpm than it would on its own and scavenging occurs siphoning out the exhaust from the next firing cylinder.


As the rpm increases this series of high pressure pulses acts more like a steady high pressure flow. This steady high pressure flow actually fills the muffler can and holds it under pressure. If the can is properly sized the pressure in the can will start to equalize with the pressure in the rest of the exhaust system right at the engines peak volumetric efficiency and instead of entering the can and slowing, it will actually blow straight thru the can as if it was straight pipe.


To sum it up, a properly built absorption muffler will act like a restriction style muffler at lower rpm and help build low end torque, but it will act like straight pipe at higher rpm so as not to sacrifice any top end hp.


The last few paragraphs above are very important when considering exhaust for a mostly stock Raptor (as far as engine configuration is concerned) The stock muffler truly is the most restrictive part of the exhaust system. This restriction is the only way Ford engineers were able meet the sound requirements that they had to meet to satisfy the Federal Government and the average Ford Raptor buyer, while still satisfying a team of Ford Bean Counters 🙂


Another huge factor to consider when designing a muffler for the Ford Raptor is drone. Ford uses a team of NHV (noise, harshness, vibration) engineers to identify annoying sounds (among other things) and to eliminate them. Most OEM mufflers use 1/4 wave or 1/2 wave resonator physics to cancel out annoying, dominating frequencies. Take a look at most OEM intake tubes. Ever notice how there is a small box, or tube hanging off the side? This is not your average ‘muffler’. The size and shape of this box, or tube is carefully thought out so that it specifically cancels out certain frequencies so that you don’t have to hear it every time you step on the throttle.


Your OEM muffler uses the same sound canceling physics. The second you remove your stock muffler in favor of a more aggressive, better flowing muffler, you’re also removing this sound canceling phenomenon built into that muffler. If you don’t do anything to cancel out these particular frequencies you’re stuck listening to the dang truck everywhere you go!! But by targeting the annoying frequencies, you can enjoy a great sounding V8 truck when you’re on the throttle, yet a stock quiet truck when just cruising.


There are 2 ways that I’ve seen the aftermarket approach this problem. The most common way is to attempt to cover up the drone. They will build a muffler big enough (or almost big enough) to absorb out the annoying frequency, or they will cancel out specific frequencies (like Corsa).


When you attempt to cover up the drone you end up with a very mild, almost stock sounding truck. Covering up the drone requires a really big muffler since the droning frequency has a really long wave length. And since the higher frequencies, the ones that we want to hear, have a really short wavelength, we end up absorbing the sounds we want to hear, and we have no highs or lows left in the sound of the exhaust to cancel out the low that we’re trying to get rid of. This makes for a quiet exhaust which you only hear as drone.


Then there is the approach where you make the muffler just big enough to accomplish the sound level goal, and use a tuned J pipe (aka Helmholtz Resonator, aka 1/4 wave acoustical stubbed resonator) to target the specific frequency that we’re trying to get rid of.


My approach to making that race car sound on the throttle, yet quiet on the highway is to absorb enough of the sound that it’s not too loud with a properly sized muffler, then whatever annoying frequency that is left over gets cancelled out thru physics using a 1/4 wave acoustical stubbed resonator. This approach is the most simple design I’ve found that is actually effective.


I’ve built hundreds of 1 off systems and thought to myself, this system has so much drone that there is no way you could ever reduce it to the point that anyone would want to daily drive the vehicle. To my surprise, I’ve been able to ‘fix’ the drone on a pretty good percentage of these prototype configurations. (Most still drone badly and I never put them into production;) But the ones that are Rowdy on the throttle, yet Quiet on the highway are released into production so that everyone may enjoy them!!!

This is a point very worth mentioning. Supercharged V Naturally Aspirated. Everyone is unique, but whenever I make a recommendation for someone over the phone, I take into consideration their entire scenario, I even sometimes get personal (married, kids, age of owner, etc.). And, I always consider customers long term goals and budget. But, one of the most important things to consider is whether or not the truck is, or will be, supercharged.


Naturally Aspirated engines (especially engines with dual VVTI) will generally respond more dramatically to exhaust changes than SuperCharged engines. When naturally aspirated and dual VVTI, a lack of scavenging causes reversion to occur, and it happens very aggressively.


Ha, to sum it up, reversion is really worse with a naturally aspirated and dual VVTI motor compared to an engine that is naturally aspirated without dual VVTI. Long tubes give the engine way more scavenging (scavenging is literally the exact opposite of reversion) than shorties or stock manifolds. The scavenging not only draws out the exhaust gases, but when the engine ECU ‘commands’ the dual VVTI into valve overlap, that scavenging actually sucks in the intake charge through the valve overlap.


This suction gives the column of air in the intake manifold kind of a head start, and when the piston moves down the column of air rushes in faster than it would on it’s own. Kind of a mini supercharger phenomenon.


Matter of fact, the ecu is expecting a certain amount of this ‘supercharging’ action when it commands the dual VVTI into valve over lap mode, if the scavenging isn’t there, again, reversion occurs. Reversion actually pushes the intake charge out of the cylinder and back up into the intake manifold, literally doing the opposite of ‘supercharging’. And that is bad, haha.


When you’re supercharged, all of this is out the window. There is a huge pump sitting on top of the motor putting positive pressure against the intake valves, and thru the exhaust valves during valve overlap. You will NEVER see reversion when supercharged. The exhaust doesn’t matter as much when supercharged. You can get away with shorties 🙂 When supercharged the first rule is to not underbuild the exhaust. But, it’s almost impossible to overbuild it (within reason obviously). No matter what you do to the exhaust the supercharger is increasing volumetric efficiency far more than the exhaust is 😉


You can make gobs more power when supercharged, with Dual VVTI by building a BA exhaust system, with great scavenging characteristics (for example, JBA Long Tubes, BAmufflers 3″ catted mid pipes, BAmufflers 3″ race dual catback exhaust, with BAmufflers dual 3″ race tailpipes exiting behind each rear tire slash cut at a 45* angle). You need the great scavenging to get the exhaust out as fast as possible since the BullyDog 93 tune minimizes valve overlap so that you don’t lose boost thru it;) This builds more boost, quicker. But, it gives the exhaust system more work to do. It needs to move the exhaust away from the engine quicker than it would stock because it has less time to do so.

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